Travel to Luang Prabang

The Jewel on the Mekong

2012-01-07T13:59:00.000-08:00

See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map

Suddenly there is an orange gleaming in the morning mist. A line of monks in their saffron robes turns around the corner. From the temple, where they live, into the main road. A line of Lao women is waiting, kneeling on mats, with baskets filled of hot sticky rice, bananas, candies. It's short after six o'clock in the morning. It's the daily procession of hundreds of monks through the streets of Luang Prabang. The women are ready to gain merits. Merits are important in Buddhism. Monks earn merits through meditation, chanting and more rituals. One way for women to earn merits is cooking and serving food to the monks, giving alms to them. When the monks pass by, the women take the food out of their baskets and put it into the bowls of the men.

The monks on their way

It's a magical moment in a mystic town.

And it's a moment of pity, when the monks and women are surrounded by hordes of tourists with their cameras. What happens too often now.

Luang Prabang is awakening. One of Southeast Asia's best preserved old cities makes faster and faster steps into the modern era. Tourism is a hope for the poor country of Laos. And also a danger. More and more tourists are looking for the unhurried charm of the traditional tranquility. They can still find it in this former royal city on a peninsula, formed by the Nam Khan, a river coming out of the misty mountains and joining the Mekong, the stream that is one of the wonders of Asias nature itself.

Luang Prabang has been a spiritual centre for hundreds of years. It became the royal capital in the 14th century, for six centuries, until the abolition of the monarchy in 1975. The first Lao Kingdom, The Lan Xang (Million Elephants), was founded in 1353 by the Khmer-supported conqueror Fa-Ngnum. He made Theravada Buddhism the state religion (see history). He got from the Khmer monarchy as gift a golden Buddha image, the Phra Bang, which gave the town the name. Today still around thousand monks and novices are living here. More than 30 temples, the so called wats or vats, have survived, dating from the fifteenth century onwards. In the morning you may wake up and hear chants, bells, gongs and drums sound harmoniously across the town. You wake up in a town of old Indochina, that still looks as it used to look during the colonial time, when the French were the rulers. A combination of Lao, Indochinese and French styles. Temples as well as shophouses from the early 20th century and older wood houses. Since 1995 Luang Prabang is a Unesco World Heritage site. Strict construction rules are followed. Thats why you discover an unique old asian town.

Haw Pha Bang

L'Eléphant Restaurant

But inside the buildings there are changes. More an more families leave the old town, because they transform their old houses into guesthouses and hotels. There is a limit of this development in view: Some days there could be not enough families left for giving nutrition to the monks. Then the existence of the old temples will be in danger. The impact of the tourism on the city has been described by the New York Times lately. This led to a broad discussion, that you can follow on lonelyplanet.com.

The view from Mount Phousi, picture by annamatic3000

See a series of fotos by New York Times and read 36 hours in Luang Prabang.

The Royal Palace is now a museum. Read the article by Gary Walsh from the Australian, whats best here and elsewhere in Luang Prabang. Find a nice description also by Jeffrey.

Picture by jeffreyalanmiller.wordpress.com

Royal Ballet Theatre: The Royal Ballet troupe performed Phra-Lak Phra-Lam, the Lao version of the sacred poem, the Ramayana, in the Royal Palace in Luang Prabang. 1975 the theatre was banned. 2002 the theatre was reestablished. See scenes from the Lao Ramayana, Lao folk dances and tribal dances. The performance starts from 6pm and entry is from 8 to 20 USD.

Picture by Lorna87. See more pictures by Esther Kalandjai

Read:
visit-laos.com

Exploring Luang Prabang See picture by Mariko

Sakkarine Road.

Ban Phanom Village

Luang Say Mekong Cruise: On the Pakou Boats, a 34 meter long barge

Links

Festivals Find a calendar of festivals in Laos here.
Hmong New Year: See a photostory by AdVenture into Laos.

Laos : Luang Prabang
Video
Envoyé par Altair91 sur wat.tv

Read background articles:
Stemming the Tide by Travel+Leisure
Unce upon a Sleepy by Fah Thai Magazine
Le tourisme au Laos ; bénédiction ou calamité? - Article by Alain Devalpo

Hotels and Guesthouses in Luang Prabang

2012-01-06T10:52:00.000-08:00

See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map and get the kmz-file for Google Earth.

3 Nagas by Alila: From 198 USD. Sakkalin Road. Located in two houses, one, The Lamache House, built 1898, hosted the roxal family. As there is a wooden floor, you stay better on the upper floor to not be disturbished by people above your head. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com.

Superior room

Ancient Luang Prabang (before: New Luang Prabang):

Auberge Le Calao Inn: From 90 USD. Mekong Riverside Road. An old hotel, balconies with view to Mekong. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com

View from the balcony of Calao Inn to the Mekong. Picture by kenandlynns.com

Bakery Guest House: Sisavangvong Road. Three rooms with balconys overlook the road. There is a restaurant downstaits, so you may hear some noise. Mixed reviews on tripadvisor.com

Picture by marhas

Ban Lakkham Guesthouse: From 105 USD. Kingkitsarath Road. One of the new guesthouses. Nice room, shower in the bath with a lot of variations, beautiful balcony with view of the Nam Khan River. Helpful owners. The dust on the balcony was not cleaned, when this blogger was there for some days. Ask for the Lao noodle soup for breakfast. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com

Picture by marhas

Ban Pack Luck Villa: From 40 USD. Room 1 and 3 are the best, according to travelfish.org. Read review by easteatswest.typepad.com

Picture by marhas

Boungnasouk Guesthouse: See picture and read review on Thorntree.

Chittana Guesthouse: From 8 USD. In a small lane between Sakkarine and Kingkitsarath Road. Basic rooms with own and shared bath, vary in size and qualitiy, according to the review on travelfish.org. See a picture.

La Maison De XanamKieng: From 50 USD. Sipoutthabat Road. Quite new. One good review on tripadvisor.com

Lane Xang Guesthouse: From 37 USD.

Lao Wooden House: From 55 USD. In a restored Lao style house, once built for a member of the royal family.

Picture by Lao Wooden House

Picture by Lao Wooden House

La Residence Phou Vao From 241 USD. The most luxurious option in Luang Prabang with excellent reviews on tripadvisor.com. "A high-end experience", notes the New York Times. The hotel sits on a hill - one mile outside of town, a long walk, but they offer a shuttle of course. Phou Vao is part of the Orient-Express group. "Excellent and decadent", means travelfish.org.

Massage at the Spa

Levady Guesthouse:
Off Sisavangvong Road. From 10 USD. Read the review of travelfish.org, the review of tamar hadar and see pictures on flickr.com

Le Parasol Blanc Hotel: From 51 USD.

Lotus Villa Boutique Hotel: From 52 USD. Kounxoa Road. The hotel sponsors the Deak Kum Pa orphanage with 500 children with bread and milk for breakfast. Guests are invited to donate. Read about a visit to the orphanage. Very good reviews on tripadvisor.com.

Frangipani room

Maison Damis:

Maison Souvannaphoum: From 180 USD.

Picture by Lisons&Dansons

Manoluck Hotel:

Mekong Estate: 555 USD per week. Thou Gnai Thao Road. "More luxury apartment than hotel", notes travelfish.org. Two storey for each guest.

Mekong Riverview Hotel: From 190 USD. All rooms vith terrace or baöcony with Mekong riverview.

Merry Guest House:

Namma Vong Guesthouse:

Oui's Guesthouse:

Phousi Hotel: From 52 USD

Ramayana Boutique Hotel and Spa: From 100 USD. MIxed reviews on tripadvisor.com. They mention, that the morning market starting at 4am takes place in front of the hotel, so guests in rooms to this side can feel disturbed by tuktuks and people, who are talking.

Sakarinh Guesthouse: Sakkarine road. From 12 USD. Good review on
Thorntree-forum.

Picture by marhas

Sala Prabang: From 50 USD. There is a street between the hotel and the Mekong, so if you book rooms with Mekong view, be aware, that there can be some street noise. And the view is not so great, because there are trees between you and the Mekong. Sala Prabang consists of six buildings. Quite good reviews on tripadvisor.com

Picture by guscairns.com

Satri House: From 100 USD. 057 Phothisarath Road. In this house Prince Souphanouvong grew up, the later known "Red Prince" and from 1975 Lao president. Good review on travelfish.org, a bit mixed reviews (charming, needs renovation) on tripadvisor.com. And description by luang-ptabang-hotels.com

Picture by annamatic3000

Picture by annamatic3000

Saynamkhan Guesthouse: See picture by Michael&Sharon

Sayo Guesthouses: From 30 USD. Three houses - Sayo Xieng Mouane, Sayo Naga and Sayo River - in renovated old style buildings. Good reviews - especially for Sayo Xieng Mouane with the neighbouring temple - on tripadvisor.com and on frommers.com

Picture by marhas

Senesouk Guesthouse: From 25 USD. Sakkarine Road. No breakfast, but nearby many possibilities. Good reviews on travelfish.org and on tripadvisor.com.

Picture by marhas

Picture by marhas

Symoungkoum Guest House:

The Apsara: Good reviews on tripadvisor.com, but the safes in the room seem not to be safe, as one guests writes.

The Chang Inn / The Chang Heritage Hotel: From 80 USD. 93/03 Sakkarine Road. The newer Chang Heritage Hotel is just around the corner at Kingkitsarath road on Nam Khan River. "Absolutely gorgeous", comments travelfish.org. On the second floor is a balcony perfect for lounging, where you can also take the breakfast. Or you have it in a palmed courtyard behind the hotel. On tripadvisor.com is noted, that the walls in Chang Inn are thin, so you here the phone of the reception ring. Good reviews for Chang Heritage on tripadvisor.com.

The Chang Inn

The Chang Heritage Hotel

The Grand: From 120 USD. On grounds of the Xiengkeo Palace, which belonged to Prince Phetsarath, four kilometres and a ten minutes drive from the centre. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com and in Lonely Planet and on kolalo.com.

Thongbay Guesthouse: From 22 USD. Bungalows set around a small but beautiful tropical garden. "The place is gorgeous", comments Two Go Hobo. But you have to walk 20 minutes to the town centre. Good reviews on travelfish.org. Thee wooden bungalows are in Lao sytle, they have no glass in the windows, just mosquito net. There is a bar on the other side of the river that plays Lao pop music in the night. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com.

Tum Tum Bamboo Art & Guesthouse:

Vanvisa Guest House: Read the review of thewanderingstraycat and comments on travelfish.org. And read a story in The Guardian.

Villa Laodeum:

Villa Champa:: Quite good reviews on tripadvisor.com, some point out, that the rooms are not cleaned on a daily basis. Lies on the way of the monks, who collect alms in the morning.

Picture by marhas

Villa Chitdara:

Villa Maly: Going to open soon. 33 rooms spread across five buildings, a mix of Laotian architecture and French and British colonial influences. Five of the rooms are deluxe and have their own balconies and views over the gardens and pool. In the centre is the 1938-built residence of Princess Khampieng and Prince Khamtan, a grandson of the 19th century’s King Zakarine. Read a description here.

Villa Maydou: From 85 USD. Ban Meuna.

Villa Phathana:

See their video:

Luang Prabang Finest Guest House - Villa Phathana from ArnuShawn on Vimeo

Villa Santi: The hotel has been created 1992 from a former royal mansion on Sakkarine road in the old town (from 150 USD). In 2001 the Santi Resort & Spa has been constructed 6 km south in a 10 hectare valley, beautifully lanscaped with streams leading to the Mekong River, surrounded by mountains, hills and terraced rice fields and with swimming pool (from 150 USD). According to some reviews on tripadvisor.com the rooms of the hotel in the old town need some renovation and are therefore overpriced. A part of the hotel is situated next to Luang Prabangs Primary School, some guests complain about the noise of the children. For the Santi Resort & Spa the reviews on tripadvisor.com are good.

Villa Santi Princess Wing.

Villa Sayada. 29 USD.

Villa Saykham:

Villa Sokxai 1 + 2: Villa Sokxai 1 is on Sakarine Road, Villa Sokxai 2 on Phosi Road. See the view from balcony of Sokxai 1 on youtube.com and find a good review on virtualtourist.com. Hayleyandlorna on travelpod.com note, that you can sit on the balcony and see the life of Wat Phon Heuang. It may wake you up at 4am (they bang the drums...), but "sitting on the balcony and listening to the evening chanting and singing at 6pm is magical". Read also the review by kolalo.com. A review of Sokyai 2 can be read on tripadvisor.com.

Villa Sokxai 1

Xieng Mouane Guesthouse: Good reviews on tripadvisor.com, guests say, they were not bothered by the drums of Wat Xieng Mouane.

Picture by marhas

Xiengthong Palace Hotel: From 90 USD. A former royal palace, turned into a luxury hotel with "Ayu Spa", just around the corner of the famous Wat Xieng Thong. Outstandding hotel according to the first reviews on tripadvisor.com

Picture by marhas
The restaurant

Picture by marhas

Picture by Xiengthong Palace
Jasmine suite

Hotels and Guesthouses outside Luang Prabang

Kamu Lodge: Located 2 and ½ hours upstream from Luang Prabang, on the left bank of the Mekong River. Twenty Safari tents provide unique accommodation, attached are stone bath rooms.The tents are furnished with bamboo and rattan furniture and have private balconies,overlooking the river.

Picture by Kamu Lodge

Khoun and Khone Bungalows:
From 15 USD. In the hills surrounding Luang Prabang, ten minutes from the centre, run by a young family. Good reviews on travelfish.org. See a video of the sunset, the interior and the exterior

Lao Spirit Resort: 99 USD. 15 km out of Luang Prabang, along the Nam Khan river. Old houses from the French colonial era were brought here and restored. Read more. See pictures on flickr.com

Long Hanfa: Bungalows on the road to Kuang Si Waterfall, around four kilometres from Phosi Market.

Puang Champa: A house for the traditional royal arts

2012-01-06T10:12:00.000-08:00

See the location on Puang Champa House Google Map

Picture by marhas

A tiny, wooden stilt house for local artists to earn a sustainable living while practicing traditional arts and for teaching and transmitting the heritage of Luang Prabang to vistors: This is Heuan Puang Champa. Gold thread embroidery is trained here and skills of musicians, dancers and singers for Lao classical dance and music are formed, the olders give the repertoire to the young ones, making new instruments, reviving a long time lost Luang Prabang handicraft used for ritual vessels and dance ornaments and training young people on ceremonial flower arrangements.

Prince Nithakhong Somsanith - a member of the former Lao Royal family - is one of the last gold thread embroiderers in the ancient tradition of the court of Luang Prabang. His grandmother taught him in this art, when he was young. Later he lived in France as Psychologist. He has founded "The House of Puang Champa', an organization to educate Lao youth in traditional arts and culture. The project has been supported by the Lao Heritage Foundation in Washington (USA).

See a video about Puang Champa House.

Puang Champa house can be visited by appointment (Heuan Chan Road, Ban Xieng Mouane; 011-856-71-254-787; puangchampa@yahoo.com).

How you arrive in Luang Prabang

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See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map

By flight

Lao Airlines Flies daily from Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Vientiane and Hanoi to Luang Prabang, on some days of the week also from Pakse, Siem Reap and Udon Thani.
Bangkok Airways: Flies daily from Bangkok to Luang Prabang.
Vietnam Airlines: On some days from Hanoi and Siem Reap.

By boat on the Mekong

Picture Pondspider
The slow boat between Pakbeng and Huay Xai

Picture claud334
Small room for many people on the slow boat

From Huay Xai: By slow boat you travel two days, staying in Pakbeng during the night. The speed boat takes around six hours, the trip may be rough. And then there are some luxury cruise boats with two- or three-day-tours.

Picture Pondspider
Huay Xai, seen from the Mekong

By bus

Picture Don T.
At the bus station in Huay Xai

Bus from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang: In January 2012 a bus connection has been launched by Thailands Transport Ministry, The second class bus runs from Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Terminal once a day and makes a stop in Chiang Rai before crossing the border to Louang Namtha, Oudomxay and Luang Prabang provinces of Laos. It arrives at Tiew Lot Sai Nua Terminal in Luang Prabang. The ride takes about 18 hours, and the fare is 1,200 Baht. The bus starts at 9 am, there is a Bus change at the frontier.

From Huay Xai: Local or VIP buses, take 12 to 15 hours
From Vientiane: Express and VIP-buses take from 6 to 8 hours

More about timetables of flights, boats and buses on travelfish.org

Where to get the Visa
You will get visa on arrival at airports as well as at other entry points in Laos. More information here. Read about the fees for visa here.

Dinner Cruise on Mekong

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Picture by Nava Mekong

Have a dinner on the river? What's usual in Bangkok or Chiang Mai has been launched now in Luang Prabang. Villa Maly Hotel now offers Nava Mekong: Everyday at 5.30 pm a boat goes downstream, stays nearby a village for dinner with traditional Lao food and dance and returns around 9 pm. The dancers perform interpretations of the royal ballet, rural life and folk tales.

The oldest human fossils found?

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Ancient human fossils - around 11,000 years old - have been found in Luang Prabang province according to luangprabangtoday.com. Dr. Joyce C White, a Senior Research Scientist at University of Pennsylvania USA), held a press confernce.
The Middle Mekong Archaeological Project (MMAP) has found five ancient human fossils in Vangtaleo Cave (Ban Phadeng Neung, Luang Prabang district). The discovery was the oldest human fossils ever found on the earth, said Dr. White accordsing to luangprabangtoday.com. The MMAP is a survey conducted along three rivers: Nam Khan, Nam Seuang and Nam Ou in Luang Prabang.

Read how the Vientiane Times quoted Dr. Joyce C. White here and go to the homepage of Dr. Joyce C. White

Read an article about MMAP in Science Daily and read a publication in Antiquity

Bibliophiles in Luang Prabang

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See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map

@ My Library: A place for young people, where they study languages, learn new skills (typing, using software, recording their own music), check out books and can lend out digital cameras. Read a self-presentation of My Library. You find a gallery for young ohtotographers there. And in 2007 the first spech contest was hold here. An article from Vientiane Times about it is published by momobooks notes. Read, what The Language Project writes about @ my library in Luang Prabang. And Travels with Denise has more background about the libraries in Luang Prabang.

@ My Library, picture by Travels with Denise

The Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre

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See the location on Luang Prabang Google Map

The Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre was founded by Tara Gujadhur and Thongkhoun Soutthivilay, now the Co-Directors. The goal of the two women was to promote understanding, appreciation, and preservation of Laos’ ethnic cultures. With Tara’s experience in anthropology and tourism, and Khoun’s experience in exhibit design and artefact preservation, they established a private museum. The centre opened in july 2007. The exhibitions feature ethnic clothing, household objects, religious artefacts and tools. The Museum Shop sells books, photos and handicrafts directly from ethnic communities. The Patio Cafe, run by L’Elephant Restaurant, serves food and drinks with a view of That Chomsi. Guided tours and seminars are available. The exhibition features the following Ethnic groups:
• Akha: The Diversity of an Ethnic Group
• Hmong: New Years Celebrations
• Mien Yao: Embroidery Techniques & Motifs
• Tai Lue: Cotton Clouds to Cloth
• Mun Yao: Taoist Religious Ceremonies
• Tai Dam: Handmade Bedding Materials
• Khmu: Baskets and Back Strap Looms
Opening times: Tuesday to Sunday, 9am – 6pm.

Climb Mount Phousi and have an amazing view

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See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map

Hike up from Sisavong Road in the centre more than 328 steps to Mount Phousi and visit Wat Phra That Chomsi, built in 1804 by King Anourathurath. From the terrace below the golod stupa (that) you have a panoramic view of the more than 30 temples in the town with gold-leaved roofs and the hills with dense forest around. Every time when the monks are pounding on their drums, you will feel as you were in meditation. Or watch the sunset over the Mekong River from here! A legend surrounds Mount Phou Si, it’s about a deep pit that led to the centre of the earth. Read, why the drums, gong and cymbals are beaten every three hours at nearby Wat Thum Thao.

South of Mount Phousi: Nam Khan River, newer parts of the town and mountains.

Northeast of Mount Phousi: Old town and Mekong river.

Buddha on Mount Phousi at Wat Chom Si

Go down now on the staircase to Phousi Road. you will come to Wat Tham Phu Si, a small cave temple, and Wat Phra Bat Nua, where you discover a yard long footprint of the Buddha.

Buddha in the cave of Wat Tham Phu Si

Wednesday Buddha

Tuesday Buddha

Friday Buddha

From silk to art: Shops and galleries

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See the locations on Google Map and get the kmz-file for Google Earth.

Art on Tile Gallery: Painted works from local artists.

Baan Khily: Sakarine Road. At this gallery in the old Alliance Francaise Building you can buy sǎa, handmade paper sheets, books and lanterns made from mulberry bark as well as other Lao crafts. Ericandjooan.com and www.offexploring.com write about Oliver Bandmann, the owner. He also introduced elephant-dung paper production and created the Help Elephants Foundation.

Camacrafts: Above JoMa Bakery. Handicrafts from Hmong and Lao village women.

Lifescene wallhanging from Camacrafts. The Lifescene contains images of Hmong and Lao life that are embroidered onto “story cloth”. Each wallhanging is a unique original. There are no patterns. The artists stich the scenes from their life experience.

Caruso Lao: Sakarine Road. Caruso Lao's carvers, turners, silversmiths and weavers transform the natural treasures of Laos into handcrafted furnishings and fashion accessories.

Fibre2Fabric Gallery:

Kopnoi: Near l'étranger books and tea and on Sisavangvong Street in front of primary school. Eco-dyed cotton apparel collection for men, women & kids. Also silk apparel & accessories, designer jewelry, spices and delicacies.

Laha Sinh: The Pouthai women of Savannakhet Province are well known for hand woven, organically-grown, indigo-colored cotton fabric. Laha Sinh company is marketing their work.

Mulberries: Upstairs from JoMa Bakery and Café. Silk shop.

Ock Pop Tok. Lao Textile Gallery and Waving Centre. Ock Pop Tok is the Lao translation for east meets west. Two Galleies and shops with clothes and wall hangings in the old town and a weaving centre two kilometres south of the old town, 50 metres after Phosy Market. Read more about Lao Textiles.

Samsara Restaurant & Gallery:

Satri Lao: Sisavangvong Road. Silks, jewellery, home furnishing.

Tours from Luang Prabang

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See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map

Tad Kuang Si waterfall: Around 30 kilometres south of Luang Prabang you find this series of falls and many pools to swim in. Two buses a day (11.30 am and 1.30 pm) bring you there. You can also do a three hours trekking from the Hmong Village Ban Lang Lao to the springs of Tad Kuang Si with allaoservice.com or Greendiscoverylaos.com

See more pictures by asiaexplorers.com.

Bears! Of course not dangerous for you, because they are behind a wire mesh fence. The Asiatic Black bears live at the "Free the bears rescue centre" near Tad Kuang Si, 30 kilometres south of Luang Prabang. These bears have been confiscated from poachers and traffickers. You can see pictures of the individual bears and read their stories here. The money for their life comes from the Australian Fund Free the Bears. Read more about the Asiatic Black bear.

Tad Sae waterfall: Go south on the road N 13 for 15 kilometers. After you have arrived in the village Bana Enesavan you hire a motor boat. After around ten minutes on the Nam Khan River you arrive at the waterfall. Tadsae has astonishing emerald water. The waterfall has three steps. From the first you walk 10 minutes to the second step, from there to the third you walk another 20 minutes. There are Ton Nong and Xang Hong trees (the elephant crying trees). Locals say, when a leave of this tree falls onto an elephant, he feels pain and cries. You can see the elephants bahting in the morning at noon and in the afternoon. Of course you can ride the elephants too. read more.

Picture by Alessio.zz

Picture by tommydavis.travellerspoint.com

You can also take a cycling tour from Luang Prabang to the waterfall. More here.

Or you can do an one-hour elephant ride to the waterfall, starting at the Tiger Trail Elephant Camp. Read what The Guardian wrote obout the camp.

The Tiger Trail Elephant Camp Video:

Pak Ou Caves: In these two caves in a limestone cliff on the Mekong more than 4000 statues of Buddhas have been placed by pilgrims during the centuries. Tham Ting is some metres above the river. For Tham Phum you have to climb 226 stairs and then you need a torch, because this cave is dark. Read, how ericandjoan.com describe the two-hours-boat-trip from Luang Prabang to Pak Pu. And read the wonderful adventures of Denise in the Pak Ou Caves.

Tham Ting above the Mekong

More than 4000 statues...

Entrance to Tham Phum. Look inside through the pictures of Khanh

Ban Xang Hai: This village on the Mekong, at the mouth of the Ou river, on the way from Luang Prabang to Pak Ou, is known for its rice whisky distillation. Before the people here crafted stoneware jars. Read about the stoneware kilns of the Middle Mekong region here. See Khanh's Gallery. There was a lot of change in the last years, before there were wood houses, now a lot of brick houses and many shops for tourists.

Silk Shop in Bang Xang Hai

Because Pak Ou Caves are around 20 kilometres north from Luang Prabang, you have first to take a trip, either on the street along the Mekong or on a boat. Here you get some impressions from the boat trip:

Mekong boats in Luang Prabang, waiting for you

The hills on the side of the Mekong are hidden in the mist, when you start in the morning. With the sun comes the blue sky.

There are some obstacles in the river, sometimes also trees float down the Mekong. So the boat drivers must be attentive.

Mountains in the background - Laos is rich of them

Shangri Lao Classic Explorer Camp & Expedition: Re-live the footsteps of French explorer Dr. P. Neis in the 19th century along tranquil streams and through dense jungle: You stay in a luxury tent camp (with spa, pool and jacuzzi) at the Nam Khan River near Ban Xieng Lom. There is an elephant village (with map) and with the elephants or without you do treks into the nature. See a video. Read tour description by thomaswanhoff

Picture by Thomas Wanhoff
Elephant Tour with Shangri Lao

Tour Operators:
Tiger Trail Outdoor Adventures:

Markets in Luang Prabang

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See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map and get the kmz-file for Google Earth

Night Market: Sisavangrong road, the main road, turns every day from 5 pm to 11 pm into a Night Market, selling a large variety of local textiles and ethnic handicrafts. From diamonds to silk, opium pipes, artists

Picture by Edward's Diary

Picture by Ihavetravellust.blogspot.com

Picture by Kleinmatt66

Morning fresh Market: On the west side of Royal Palace. Everything from pythons to silkworms, as you can read and see on mmm-yoso!!!

Phosy Market: The biggest market of Luang Prabang. You reach it by a ten minutes tuk-tuk ride out of the town. You find household items, clothes (in chinese style) and all kind of food, the products come from Laos, Thailand and China. Open every day from 7 am to 5 pm. Read more in Trippin' Mag.

Rice, picture by Hanoi Mark See more pictures by annamatic 3000

Chinese Market: On the street to Vientiane, across from the bus station. Here the merchants speak Chinese.

Darat Market: Uscale shops.

Hmong Market: On the corner across from the Phousi Hotel and Post Office, the handicraft market with quilted bags, pillow cases and bed spreads made mostly by Hmong. It is open during the day (the vendors then move to the night market after 5pm).

Between heaven and earth

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See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map

About the details of Luang Prabangs most important temples you can read at orientalarchitecture.com, which has a lot of pictures.

See the locations on Google Map and get the kmz-file for Google Earth.

Until the beginning of the twentieth century all buildings in Luang Prabang were made of wood. The only exception: The temples were built of bricks and mortar. Today only three - Wat Xieng Thong, Wat Pak Khane and Wat Khili - have retained their original structure and decoration. Read more background here.

Each monastery in Luang Prabang is demarcated by a peripheral masonry wall. Doors in the form of prasat - a small, square, tiered and crowned tower, perforated on opposite sides by two large arched bays connected by a continuous passageway allow access to the sanctuary and its building annexes.

Almost always confined to the northern part of the viharn is a building without walls and sometimes on stilts. By token of the shape of its roofing, it resembles a plain sanctuary which is used as a shelter for the pagoda’s great drum. Like the gong, the drum is used for the call to prayers as well as to announce holy days, to mark important events like the Laotian New Year, village festivities, bereavements and festivals. The drum is made from a single piece of tree trunk of about 1 meter in diameter. It is hollowed out and covered at both ends with taut cowhide.

The temples of Luang Prabang are characterized by immense two- or even three-layered roofs covered with flat tiles, sometimes with a change of roof gradient. Another characteristic is the existence of a peripheral nave.

Roof ornamentation, which is very varied in Luang Prabang, is overall characterized by horned ridge-tiles portraying a naga’s upper torso; these may be richly decorated or sometimes reduced to a simple schematic contour. A medial spike, often with three, seven or nine small prasat rises from the top. Depending on the number of spikes, the prasat represent Mount Sinew (the most important mountain in the Buddhist cosmology, with seven annular chains on either side.

Haw Pha Bang: Also: Ho Pha Bang. The Chapel of the Royal Palace, built from 1963 to 1993, lies in the northeastern corner of the ground of the Royal Palace. It has been constructed as the home for the Pha Bang. This is a golden statue (83 cm tall) brought to Luang Prabang in 1359. Then the Khmer king gave the Pha Bang to his son-in-law, the first Lang Xang king Fa Ngum. Read more details an orientalarchitecture.com

This altar is intended to hold the Pha Bang.

More pictures by Jeffreyalanmiller.wordpress.com

Wat Xieng Thong: The "feast for the eyes and the soul" has been built around 1560 by King Setthathirat. It is one of the most important monasteries in Laos. The Lao kings have been coronated here and it was the center of numerous annual festivals honoring the Buddha and various folk spirits. During the 1960s it has been renovated and redecorated. The roof was repaired. The entrance was gilded. The interior and the exterior walls were covered with black, glossy lacquer and decorated with figures and symbols in gold leaf. On the back wall a large flame tree, a tree of life, was set in colored glass mosaics. So it became the temple we admire today.

Where the guests used to arrive from the water way: Stairs leading from the Mekong up to Wat Xieng Thong.

The sim (temple hall): The exterior and the interior are decorated by a rich grandeur. The stenciling on the façade recounts scenes from the jataka and shows images of the punishment of evil-doers. Read a detailed description on orientalarchitecture.com.

The "Dok so fa" with seventeen elements. The more elements this decoration on top of the roof has, the more important is the monastery.

The Tripitaka Library: This chapel from 1828 has many names: Haw Kawng, Haw Trai or Hor Tai. Here the Tripitaka, the 'three baskets' of the Theravada Buddhist canon of scriptures, were stored. Outside colorful glass mosaics show scenes of local life and traditions. Read a detailed description on orientalarchitecture.com.

The Red Chapel (Haw Tai Pha Sai-Nyaat): On the outside you see a red stucco inlaid with glass mosaics that illustrate religious and everyday life. The mosaics were added during the restoration in 1957. The original date of the construction of the chapel is not known. The bronze reclining Buddha inside, dating from the 16th century, is one of the most valuable of Lao Buddhist images (see picture). Read more details on orientalarchitecture.com. See also a picture taken in 1973 by Gert Holmertz.

The flame tree, the tree of life in mosaic, you find on the back of the sim.

The Carriage House (Hóhng Kép Mien or Hor Latsalat): Built 1962 it contains the funeral chariot of King Sisavang Vong (1885-1959), King of Luang Prabang, 1904-46, and King of Laos, 1946-59. The sculpted and gilded teakwood panels on the exterior show the Lao version of the Ramayana, the Pha Lak Pha Lam. Read more on orientalarchitecture.com. See also this foto taken 2001 by Gert Holmertz.

Seven nagas dominate the royal chariot. It was used to carry the remains of King Sisavang Vong to the field near Wat That Luang for his cremation in April 1961. There are three ornate gilded sandlewood urns, that contained the remains of the king's father (in front) and mother (in the rear); Sisavang Vong's remains are given the central place of honor under the canopy. Read more on orientalarchitecture.com.

Wat Siri Moung Khoung: Also: Wat Si Muang Khun. It has been built in the 18th century.

The Sim of Wat Siri Moung Khoung.

He looks quite wild.

Wat Sop Sickharam: Right next to Wat Sensoukharam. It has been built by King Theng Kham (1479-86).

Wat Sensoukharam: Also: Wat Sene. Sakkarine Road. Built in 1714, surrounded by 11 small stupas.

Wat Sensoukharam has richly decorated windows, on both side you see apsaras standing on beasts. See more picturey on asiaexplorers.com

Wat Mai Souvannaphoumaham: Sisavangvong Road. Across from the Royal Palace, the biggest Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang. Its name means "The new monastery of the golden land". It has been constriucted 1796-1797 by King Anourout. King Manthatourat (1817-1836) has renovated it. During Pimay, the Laotian new year, the Phra Bang is exposed in the temple for three days and the people from Laos come to splash water onto the holy statue for the ceremonial cleansing. Outstanding are the walls of the front verandah. They show scenes from the Ramayana and Buddha's penultimate incarnation. Lacquered columns that are elaborately stenciled. It served as a temple for the royal family and has been the residence of the Pra Sangkharat, the highest Laotian Buddhist dignitary, for longtime. Read more at orientalarchitecture.com.

Gold facade with the central door. Nak Naga figures join the colums to the roof.

Gilded stucco near the entrance.

Stupa and chapels.

Picture by Lorna87. And see also the picture by trekearth.com

Wat Hosiang: Also called Wat Hosian and Wat Hoxian. Adjoining to Wat That. Ho Siang was founded by Khouane Sene Muxa in 1705 or early 1706. The wat was destroyed by a storm in 1900 and rebuilt. The octagonal pillars and the verandas on the northeast and southwest sides of the sim were added in 1952. More details on orientalarchitecture.com

See pictures by laomeow.blogspot.com and by orientalarchitecture.com and wallpaintings by Dany and Maryse

Wat Mahathat: Also: Wat Pha Mahathat or Wat Si Mahatat. Founded by King Say Setthathirath in 1548. The sim collapsed during a storm in 1900 and was rebuilt between 1907 and 1910. Here are also the ashes of the revered Prince Phetsarath, who declared Laos independent in 1945, and Prince Souvanna Phouma, his younger half-brother, who served as prime minister and sought to retain Lao independence in negotiations with the Pathet Lao. More details on orientalarchitecture.com
Wat Phra Mahathat is one of the most important places in Luang Prabang for the celebration of the Lao New Year. On the third day of Phimai (the day when the deity of the year arrives), the abbots of Wat May, Wat Xieng Thong, Wat Aham and Wat Wisun arrive in a solemn procession to attend a sacred dance of the town's guardian spirits, Phou Nheu and Nha Nheu.

The stairway from Fa Ngum Road shows Thai influence. It reminds of the stairway to Wat Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai.

Picture by Viv and Matt's Travels

See pictures by laomeow.blogspot.com and by orientalarchitecture.com

Wat Aham: This means „The temple of the flourishing heart“, it has been built at the beginning of the ninetenth century and is a centre of meditation.

Entrance to Wat Aham, picture by Hanoi Mark. See more pictures by davieshongkong. See also Banyan Tree and Wat Aham, picture by Esther Kalandjai
. And more details by orientalarchitecture.com

Wat Pha Phon Phao:

Picture by Hanoi Mark

Wat Wisunarat: The oldest operating temple in Luang Prabang is also called Wat Visounnalat or Wat Visounlalat. Visoulalat is the name of the King who built it in 874 of Burmese calendar, which is 1512 in international calender. After a fire 1887 set by the black bandits it has been rebuilt from 1896 to 1898. In front of the temple you find the Makmo stupa. It looked like the half shape of the watermelon, so it was called That Makmo. In the temple you see the 835 years old Lao Manuscript, six stones with writing in Lao an Dharma Language. read more.

Jade Buddha at Wat Wisnunarat, pictures by Kleinmatt66

That Makmo (Watermelon Stupa), picture by Kleinmatt66

Wat Saen: Picture by Esther Kalandjai

Santi Chedi This place has many names: Wat Phol Phao, Wat Phom Phao or Wat Phra That Khong Santi Chedi. It lies on top of a hill, from where you have a good view over Luang Prabang. The stupa has been completed in 1988. Inside you find heavenly and apocalyptic paintings.

Picture by annamatic3000. See also pictury by sgtowns.com and frescoes inside by biggworldphotography.com

Wat Long Khun: Before Lao kings were coronated, they spent three days in this wat. See pictures by orientalarchitecture.com and by backpackers-around.com

Pictures by 5 mois de voyage en asie du Sud Est

Wat Nong Sikhounmuang: It has one of the biggest pagodas in Luang Prabang. It has been constructed in the style of vientiane.

Picture by travelling-mirko.de

See pictures by Mai An Hoa, by Alain Travels.

Wat Sen in Luang Prabang, picture by tinsan.net

Lick your lips

2008-11-04T13:14:00.001-08:00

See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map

Picture by marhas
This watercress soup at L'Eléphant was delicate.

Restaurants

See the locations on Google Map and get the kmz-file for Google Earth.

The Laotian and the French cuisine are converging in Luang Prabang, as The Australien notes. Sweet, sour, bitter and salty are the Lao tastes. Rice is the central thing in Lao cuisine, not the long grain rice, that Viet". It's rolled into small balls and eaten with the hand. The Lao people do not cook with a lot of chili in their food, but they have a vast array of side dishes made of chili, ginger, soy with chili or ginger and sweet and sour dips. Or they eat sweets made of sticky rice. Read more about Lao cuisine.

Some specialities:

Orlam: Beef or chicken casserole with green leafe vegetables, onion, fungus, crisp green beans with a small amount of
chilli, juniper wood and fennel. See picture by flickr.com

Oh phak dak: Fermented fish casserole.

Ua nor mai: Crispy bamboo shoots stuffed with pork
and vegetables with sweet dipping sauce.

Say ua: Pork sausages only made in Luang Prabang.

Geng Phet: Chicken or pork or beef casserole with coconut sauce, Lao basil, eggplant
and crispy green beans.

Larp: Minced fish or chicken or pork
meat salad.

Arisai: 49/3 Sakarine road. Fremch, you get Provençal stew.

Ban Lao: Ban Mano. Lao and Chinese food.

3 Nagas Restaurant:

Arisai Restaurant and Wine Bar: Sakarine Road. The restaurant Mediterranean cuisine, for exasmple couscous with lamb.

Baràvin: 59 Sisavangvong Road.

Boungnasouk Restaurant: With view over the Mekong. Read the review by mmm-yoso.typepad.com.

Boua Savanh Restaurant: Bank Mekhong Rd. Lao and Thai food. On a terrace, overlooking the river.

Blue Lagoon Cafe:. A mix of eastern and western delicacien, Laotian highlights and Swiss classics as well as tender local beef and a large variety of delicious snacks and fresh salad creations.

L'Eléphant: French and Laotian cuisine. Wildboar in the sauce of Luang Prabang chanterelles, watercress soup, roasted duck breast in the sauce of roselle, crème brûlée with coconut and pan fried bananas are some of the elements of the menu.

Lao Ethnic Café and Dining Son phao: With musicians and dancers ar dinner shows. See pictures by patrickmccoy.typepad.com

Le Patio Café: In "Traditional Arts and Ethnology Museum" in an old French colonial villa on top of a hill near the town center. You get food of the ethnic minorities Akha, Hmong. Khmu and Tai Lue as well as French sandwichies. "Authentic, simple and tasty", notes Nicole Long.

L'Etranger Books and Tea: Many kinds of tea and smoothies and a library with books. Tourists can rent them, for people from Luang Prabang it's free. And they show films in the night.

Picture by Kleinmatt66

JoMa Bakery Café: Fa Ngum Road. Organic Lao Arabica Coffee. Besides a wide selection of breads and pastries You get sandwiches, salads and soups.

Lao Vegetarian:

Malee Restaurant: Manomai Road. You do your own barbeque of fish and fresh vegetables. Read review and see pictures by Eating in Translation.

Pak Huoy Mixay: 47/5 Ban Vatnong, Thanon Savang Vatthana.Fresh fish from the Mekong, Lao specialities, barbecue.

Saffron Caffè: High in the mountain plateaus surrounding the city of Luang Prabang, Hmong, Yao and Khmu hilltribes produce a rare specialty highland Arabica coffee. Cool air at the high elevations and rich forest soil combine with the distinctive care make these mountain estates an exceptional coffee growing region. Saffron Caffè is as restaurant as well as a project to get hilltribes away from opium plantation by planting and distributing coffee. Read more in the blog of Saffron Caffe

Samsara Restaurant and Gallery: With open-air roof terrace.

Somchan Restaurant: Suvannabanlang road. Enjoy sour fish lab, described by Eating in Translation. Or take a duck soup. Or enjoy a salad with watercress as mmm-yoso did.

Picture by mmm-yoso

Tamnak Lao: Authentic Lao food. They have cooking classes too.

See another picture and a review by Umdiewelt.de

Tamarind: Opposite Wat Nong. Real Lao food on a french colonial terrace. Run by Melburnian Caroline Gaylard and her Laotian partner Joy Ngeuamboupha. Lao style fish barbecue on friday nights. From their shop you can take home Lao cookbooks, sticky rice, sweet chilly paste, dried fruits or seeds. The restaurant closes at 6pm.

The Apsara: Luang Prabang buffalo sausages served with fresh ginger, peanuts and garlic; braised fillet of local river fish with a tomato and saffron butter sauce or braised pork belly on roasted pumpkin with aubergine chutney and star anise broth.

The Pizza:

Tum Tum Chong:

Un Petit Nid Biblio Bistro: Sakarin Road. A 154 years old house has been converted to a café by a Chinese construction method of that era. Read more on kulahaus.blogspot.com

Visoun restaurant: Wisunalat road. Lao and Chinese.