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Saturday, January 5, 2019

Pha Tad Ke: A Dutchman's Faszination with Ethno-Botanism in Luang Prabang

See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map by #treasuresoflaos


Orchid nursery, Picture by marhas

There are more than 1,200 different plant species, arranged in sections such as the ginger garden, ethno-botanic garden, palm garden, bamboo garden, organic and educational garden: Pha Tad Ke Botanical Garden is a new attraction a 10- to 20-minute boat ride down the Mekong River, around 2km from Luang Prabang, opened in 2017.


Scenic outlook from Pha Tad Ke Botanical garden   Picture by marhas

Rik Gadella, the general manager of Pha Tad Ke, had no knowledge of botanism, before he started this adventure. The Dutch national was organizing art exhibitions and publishing art books in Paris and New York for 25 years, before he flew to Luang Prabang for a short holiday 11 years ago. He fell in love with Laos and looked for a plot of land to build a small house. By chance he found the Pha Tad Ke site, named after the nearby mountain, which name in Lao means "the mountain to unite and resolve". This was the place, where the former viceroy of Laos used to go hunting. Rik Gadella found Laotian partners, who bought the area and leased it to him.


Waterlily-pond   Picture by marhas

Gadella sold his publishing company and borrowed some money from an uncle to realize his collection of indigenous plant species. “Everything we have here we had to collect ourselves. We have concentrated on the flora of Laos, our plants are used every day by Lao people”, he told the South China Morning Post. Gadella and his team collaborated with the National University of Laos, the Queen Sirikit Botanic Garden in Chiang Mai (Thailand), the Singapore Botanic Garden and the Royal Botanic Garden in Edinburgh in planning the Pha Tad Ke Botanical Garden.


Bamboo along the way   Picture by marhas

He recounts that there were no plant nurserys in Laos and little research on ethno-botany, when he started his project, little research about the use of plants for medicine, food and handicrafts by the many ethnic minority groups living in Laos. "Eighty percent of the Lao population live in the mountains, lots of them with no real access to modern medicine so they are still using these plants," Gadella told Nikkei Asian Review. In Laos this knowledge is passed from mouth to mouth. The team of Pha Tad Ke Botanical garden did a lot of field trips, collecting plants and ethno-botanical data and is now showing it to its visitors, who can even find a section of plants said to placate spirits or medical plants for elephants. Rik Gadella plans to do research more on the efficacy of the plants. He would like to know how much of traditional healing is based on shamanistic rituals and how much on the plants.


Learn about rice plants and their use for elephants   Picture by marhas

Pha Tad Ke Botanical Garden specializes on limestone botany and offers also a limestone habitat and a cave. Laos has some of the last remaining intact areas of limestone karst in the world. Gadella is now collecting funds for the next development: a mist house for orchids, a herbarium, better nurseries, a rice field and a research and training center.


Picture by marhas

The entry fee for Pha Tad Ke Botanical garden is 25 US-Dollars for foreigners and 10 Dollars for locals. The boat trip from Luang Prabang is included.


See mor pictures of Pha Tad Ke Botanical Garden on Instagram.

Follow Rik Gadella on Facebook.


Discover more:
Your Guide in Luang Prabang


Wednesday, December 19, 2018

From Silk to Art: Shops and Galleries in Luang Prabang

See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map by #treasuresoflaos and get the kmz-file for Google Earth.


Luang Prabang is "the best place in Laos to find the country’s remarkable textile treasures" according to wanderingsilk.org.


Anakha (The Blue House): Anakha fuses French design with elegant Laotian and Indochina textiles. Founder Veronique Cottereau-PravinAnakha is inspired by her creative designer love of hand-made textiles, nurtured while living in Vietnam for many years. The house was built in late 1920’s by Maohui Yun, who was born in Hainan (China). After living in Hanoi, Vietnam, he went to Lao after the First World War. Inspired by the colonial style that he observed in Hanoi, he built this French style house in Luang Prabang. A flux of people from Hainan, young or old, followed his steps later. They stayed at the house until they found places to live.








Galerie Asiama:
Alain Menoni presents antiques, ethnic objects and curiosities mainly from the Asian continent. Linda S. McIntosh has brought together textile collections from South East Asia and neighboring countries. See Asiama on Facebook.


Camacrafts: Above JoMa Bakery. Handicrafts from Hmong and Lao village women.


Lifescene wallhanging from Camacrafts. The Lifescene contains images of Hmong and Lao life that are embroidered onto “story cloth”. Each wallhanging is a unique original. There are no patterns. The artists stich the scenes from their life experience.


Caruso Lao: Sakarine Road. Caruso Lao's carvers, turners, silversmiths and weavers transform the natural treasures of Laos into handcrafted furnishings and fashion accessories.




Fibre2Fabric Gallery: Fibre2Fabric Gallery is a non-profit exhibition space in Luang Prabang dedicated to documenting and exhibiting textiles from the Lao Textile Heritage Collection.


Kopnoi: Near l'étranger books and tea and on Sisavangvong Street in front of primary school. Eco-dyed cotton apparel collection for men, women & kids. Also silk apparel & accessories, designer jewelry, spices and delicacies.


Naga Creations: Handmade jewelry from silver and gem stones.




Ock Pop Tok. Ock Pop Tok is the Lao translation for east meets west: Laotian weaver Veomanee Duangdala and English photographer Joanna Smith have set up the company to promote Lao textiles. Today Ock Pop Tok works together with around 500 women in villages in Laos. Their main center lies outside the old town at the Mekong River. You can visit the flagship store, the textile production, classes in weaving and dying and have a meal at their Silk Road Cafe. Exhibitions are shown at the Fibre2Fabric gallery. They even have a guesthouse at the centre where you can stay, The Mekong Villa. On the main road in Luang Prabang you find the Boutique shop and the Ock Pop Tok Heritage shop with articles from the Village all over Laos.






Ma Te Sai: Sisavangvong Road. This shop is about ethnic handicrafts. You get souvenirs made from bamboo, fabric, recycled paper and other natural materials. Herbal tea, coffee, local whiskey and rice can be found here as well.




Passa Paa Boutique & Textile Studio: Heather Smith, managing a textile design studio in London UK, saw the opportunity to mix two worlds and develop textiles that could provide a sustainable market for the skills of Hmong artisans. In 2016 Heather teamed up with her long time friend Hongkham Xiong ‘Pok’, a local Lao/Hmong entrepreneur and Hmong craft enthusiast, and together they have evolved Passa Paa into a thriving studio team of in-house makers where they work in collaboration with a number of Hmong families within Luang Prabang province. Passa Paa is a textile studio that merges traditional Hmong handicraft skills with a modern print aesthetic.






Queen Design Lao: Hand-woven linen, silk and cotton dresses, skirts. Beside pashminas and scarves, organic face scrubs and wood glasses are sold here.


Samsara Restaurant & Gallery:




Satri Lao: Sisavangvong Road. Silks, jewellery, home furnishing.




Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (Taec): The Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre works together with over 600 handicraft producers. They are dedicated to the collection, preservation, and interpretation of the traditional arts and lifestyles of the diverse ethnic groups of Laos. Le Patio Café is part of the centre. They have another shop at Sakkaline Road.




Friday, December 14, 2018

Lick your Lips in Luang Prabang: From Laotian to French Cuisine

See the locations on Luang Prabang Google Map by #treasuresoflaos

Picture by marhas
This watercress soup at L'Eléphant was delicate.


Restaurants

See the locations on Google Map and get the kmz-file for Google Earth.

The Laotian and the French cuisine are converging in Luang Prabang, as The Australien notes. Sweet, sour, bitter and salty are the Lao tastes. Rice is the central thing in Lao cuisine, not the long grain rice, that Viet". It's rolled into small balls and eaten with the hand. The Lao people do not cook with a lot of chili in their food, but they have a vast array of side dishes made of chili, ginger, soy with chili or ginger and sweet and sour dips. Or they eat sweets made of sticky rice. Read more about Lao cuisine.

Some specialities:

Orlam: Beef or chicken casserole with green leafe vegetables, onion, fungus, crisp green beans with a small amount of
chilli, juniper wood and fennel. See picture by flickr.com

Oh phak dak: Fermented fish casserole.

Ua nor mai: Crispy bamboo shoots stuffed with pork
and vegetables with sweet dipping sauce.

Say ua: Pork sausages only made in Luang Prabang.

Geng Phet: Chicken or pork or beef casserole with coconut sauce, Lao basil, eggplant
and crispy green beans.

Larp: Minced fish or chicken or pork
meat salad.


Ban Lao: Ban Mano. Lao and Chinese food.



3 Nagas Restaurant:


Picture by marhas


Arisai Restaurant and Wine Bar: Sakarine Road. Mediterranean cuisine, for example couscous with lamb.




Baràvin: 59 Sisavangvong Road.




Boungnasouk Restaurant: With view over the Mekong. Read the review by mmm-yoso.typepad.com.


Boua Savanh Restaurant: Bank Mekhong Rd. Lao and Thai food. On a terrace, overlooking the river.


Blue Lagoon Cafe:. A mix of eastern and western delicacien, Laotian highlights and Swiss classics as well as tender local beef and a large variety of delicious snacks and fresh salad creations.




L'Eléphant: French and Laotian cuisine. Wildboar in the sauce of Luang Prabang chanterelles, watercress soup, roasted duck breast in the sauce of roselle, crème brûlée with coconut and pan fried bananas are some of the elements of the menu.





Pictures by marhas

Lao Ethnic Café and Dining Son phao: With musicians and dancers ar dinner shows. See pictures by patrickmccoy.typepad.com


Le Patio Café: In "Traditional Arts and Ethnology Museum" in an old French colonial villa on top of a hill near the town center. You get food of the ethnic minorities Akha, Hmong. Khmu and Tai Lue as well as French sandwichies. "Authentic, simple and tasty", notes Nicole Long.


L'Etranger Books and Tea: Many kinds of tea and smoothies and a library with books. Tourists can rent them, for people from Luang Prabang it's free. And they show films in the night.


Picture by Kleinmatt66


JoMa Bakery Café: Fa Ngum Road. Organic Lao Arabica Coffee. Besides a wide selection of breads and pastries You get sandwiches, salads and soups.




Kaiphaen Restaurant: Creative Lao cuisine. "Friends International" are training young people to get them into employment.




Lao Vegetarian:

Malee Restaurant: Manomai Road. You do your own barbeque of fish and fresh vegetables. Read review and see pictures by Eating in Translation.

Pak Huoy Mixay: 47/5 Ban Vatnong, Thanon Savang Vatthana.Fresh fish from the Mekong, Lao specialities, barbecue.

Saffron Caffè: High in the mountain plateaus surrounding the city of Luang Prabang, Hmong, Yao and Khmu hilltribes produce a rare specialty highland Arabica coffee. Cool air at the high elevations and rich forest soil combine with the distinctive care make these mountain estates an exceptional coffee growing region. Saffron Caffè is as restaurant as well as a project to get hilltribes away from opium plantation by planting and distributing coffee. Read more in the blog of Saffron Caffe




Samsara Restaurant and Gallery: With open-air roof terrace.


Somchan Restaurant: Suvannabanlang road. Enjoy sour fish lab, described by Eating in Translation. Or take a duck soup. Or enjoy a salad with watercress as mmm-yoso did.


Picture by mmm-yoso


Tamnak Lao: Authentic Lao food. They have cooking classes too.




See another picture and a review by Umdiewelt.de


Tamarind: Opposite Wat Nong. Real Lao food on a french colonial terrace. Run by Melburnian Caroline Gaylard and her Laotian partner Joy Ngeuamboupha. Lao style fish barbecue on friday nights. From their shop you can take home Lao cookbooks, sticky rice, sweet chilly paste, dried fruits or seeds. The restaurant closes at 6pm.



The Apsara: Luang Prabang buffalo sausages served with fresh ginger, peanuts and garlic; braised fillet of local river fish with a tomato and saffron butter sauce or braised pork belly on roasted pumpkin with aubergine chutney and star anise broth.




The Pizza:




Tum Tum Chong:





Un Petit Nid Biblio Bistro:
Sakarin Road. A 154 years old house has been converted to a café by a Chinese construction method of that era. Read more on kulahaus.blogspot.com




Visoun restaurant: Wisunalat road. Lao and Chinese.



Dinner on Mekong River
Nava Mekong: Dine & Cruise for lunch with visit to Pak Ou Caves, leaving Luang Prabang 10.30 am at Wat Nong's Pier and returning at 2:30 pm. Dinner with sunset on the way to Xieng Men Village and traditional Lao music and performance, returning at 9:00 pm.